If you are seeking a good place to go shopping in Amman and ask a local for assistance in this venture, you are most likely going to be directed to Sweifieh, the primary shopping district of the Jordanian capital. This district falls within the territory of the Valley of Orchard municipality on the northwest edge of the city, and it has fast turned into one of the most modern places in the city. The district does have a double-sided character though, one that not all tourists shall notice immediately. This is because you need to visit the area twice to see it: once in the day and once after the sun has gone down.
Sweifieh is known for its odd juxtaposition of day entertainments and dark ones. There are family-oriented shopping centres here, a profusion of shopping malls for general patronage, and a great many international education institutions of good repute. However, there are also a great many gentleman’s clubs here, as well as other shops providing adult entertainment and companionship, which means it is also considered something of a red light district come sundown. There are also a ton of clubs and bars around the area, which makes it popular with at least one more species of night-owl. In effect, you see families coming here during the day: come evening, the families are replaced by nightclub-goers and people seeking a less-than-GP-class sort of entertainment.
If you do come here to shop, you should probably stick to the malls and the exclusively pedestrian Al-Wakalat Street, which is full of cafes and designer stores. High end boutiques and all sorts of establishments providing nearly everything you might need can be found just around the area-and because cars are not allowed in the street, you can have a safer time walking around too. Once you do get out of this place, though, you shall likely be facing some awful traffic jams. The popularity of Sweifieh and its narrow streets add up to only one thing: a near-perpetual congestion around and in it. It tends to ease up in the very early morning (think starting around 3:30-4:00hrs) but it can get hectic pretty quickly, so be warned.
There are things other than modern attractions and shopping spots in Sweifieh, though. For example, an old chapel across the street from the Liwan Hotel hosts some superb mosaics from the Byzantine era, discovered in the year 1970. This site is actually said to be under threat from both environmental conditions (the runoff from rains is being cited in particular) and the encroachment of further development in the area, so most people in Sweifieh are being advised to see the mosaics while they are still there and easily accessible. They are indeed exquisite, and may well be worth a small detour during your shopping trip, so consider going to see them. On the whole, though, things like these are decidedly rare in the district, which is rapidly gaining a name for being among the most urbanised and forward-looking of areas in the city.